LFW AW2012 Day 2: Catwalks (Temperley, Todd Lynn, Issa)

DSC_4448a

ELISA PALOMINO

Our day started at the Fashion Scout premises. Elisa's collection was very much about the 20s/30s vintage look, and I mean vintage, not "interpretation of". Vivid and colourful with a strong Oriental influence in splashes of reds/pinks/oranges and textured hair in flat paper-like waves. My favourite outfit (pictured) was the long black velvet dress a la Morticia Adams.

DSC_4168a

DSC_4173a

MATTJS VAN BERGEN

DSC_4184a

The invitation and lookbook looked very intriguing, the collection was titled "Sunburst". The dresses promised a robotic, futuristic aesthetic, and who doesn't like a little galactical flair here at AoB? Pleats, I've coveted the tiny pleat ever since Hermes came out with the pleated scarves (of which I own one, of course)

DSC_4183a

They also gave us gourmet shimmer-covered truffles. This immediately catalogues this show under "awesome".

DSC_4185a

I was very much drooling over these metal belts

DSC_4193a

The pleats take this trench somewhere else. Perfect comb of classic travelling to the 40th century. And she's walking on blue

DSC_4201a

DSC_4208a

I loved the modern 30s beauty of the models, it was all very glossy

DSC_4219a

This was probably my favourite piece along with the trench, it made an impact when she swung the little seafoam number down the runway. I guess it's kind of Versace. I like it a lot.

DSC_4225a

DSC_4228a

Never one to miss a good shot of cobalt..

DSC_4245a

DSC_4236a

As in many shows, I thought the following was out of character, but nevertheless it's very striking.

DSC_4240a

DSC_4244a

And here we have another collar, because collars are furiously happening.

DSC_4241a

DSC_4263a

TODD LYNN

The coked-out look of the models was reason enough for these clothes to work. There is no other way of doing minimal, than with wet hair and a black eye. I enjoyed this collection, it was very androgynous and yet there was an angelic quality to it, it was very fluid.

DSC_4319a

DSC_4320a

The muted palette opened up to include a selection of olives and teals in an array of textures, and fur- wasn't LFW strongly marked by the resurgence of fur? It was everywhere. The shoes generally matched the bottom garment giving this a slightly retro feel.

DSC_4332a

TEMPERLEY

DSC_4459a

Temperley was one of my most awaited shows (it's my favourite brand shown at LFW) and it was supremely crowded. The setting was beautiful. I had in front of me the girl with the bird on her head, you'll see her in all style publications I'm sure

DSC_4361a

The mood was regal; it was all very ladylike, very Orient Express with the fox fur hats and the matching accesories. A succession of rich fabrics and intricate beading, there weren't any big surprises for me here but it was thoroughly enjoyable. I particularly like the very modern square-sequinned skirts and jackets mixed in with the prints on silk.

DSC_4366a

DSC_4377a

Belt with chains? YES

DSC_4387a

Completely enamoured with the hairstyle. I took hundreds of pictures of the hair.

There is something post-war austere about the aesthetique in this show, which really balances out the baroque that's characteristic of Temperly. This outfit was one of my favourites, and the model, too. The soft metallic, the velvet accents.

DSC_4389a

DSC_4393a

DSC_4401a

DSC_4402a

DSC_4406a

DSC_4418a

The pattern of these sequins is hypnotising. Are they even round?

DSC_4440a

DSC_4448a

DSC_4452a

Issa

DSC_4462a

I thought it was so funny how this model was getting her nails done while chatting to his friend backstage. I also bumped into my friend Yvan. He is seriously everywhere.

DSC_4461a

We didn't get good seats cause we were hanging out inside...and frankly, waiting outside is a bit boring.

DSC_4466a

DSC_4467a

DSC_4479a

Very poetic Transiberian talk in the press release- I actually found Temperley a lot more transiberian than this. This was, in true Issa style, quite 60s, and I love that. Unapologetically so, folk prints and all. Some people were commenting backstage that they already saw this fifty years ago, but I didn't, so no prob. I also really like the makeup.

DSC_4503a

I wouldn't say that it was as edgy as other shows I've attended this season..I do not think it was as modern or groundbreaking...It was very me, however.

DSC_4506a

DSC_4509a

DSC_4514a

DSC_4517a

DSC_4524a

DSC_4530a

DSC_4552a

DSC_4556a

DSC_4564a

You'll notice my favourite outfits because I get quite obsessed about taking a good photo. Can you believe I took this from where I was climbing on top of my neighbour sitting? Yes, I adore this dress!

DSC_4670a

DSC_4575a

You fail to see movement in a picture, the movement was insane. The hair and the skirt bounced in unison.

DSC_4578a

DSC_4582a

This one was also very special, probably the most special. Love a little deco.

DSC_4627a

DSC_4635a

DSC_4638a

And this was the other look that truly summoned what's so fresh about 30+60s right now. Thirties deco meets sixties in London. Extra points for the model appearing to be naked. This was the guy's favourite outfit.

DSC_4609a

DSC_4614b

DSC_4685a

DSC_4617a

There was a parallel current going on, of oriental brocades on thick green silk. I failed to photograph many of them, they weren't my favourite, but here you have a sample

DSC_4643a

C'est fini!

All photos (c) Diana for Adventures of Barbarella. Please quote & link if used