DRIES VAN NOTEN x FREDERIC MALLE - REVIEW

mar18 dries frederic malleDries Van Noten for Frederic Malle parfums (UK here)

A little press info:

Inspired by Dries Van Noten’s rich alchemy, this perfume is built around natural sandalwood for its softness, character and the fact that it is simultaneously exotic and evocative of the tradition of great classic perfumes. The milky smell of Santal Mysore adds the vanilla sweetness of Flemish pastries with a hint of vanilla, ethyle maltol, sacrasol (sulfurol) and Peruvian balm. This monumental warmth is tempered by a large dose of jasmine absolute and a musk accord. A trace of saffron and patchouli gives this already very distinct ensemble a unique, almost leathery vibration. An overdose of lemon and bergamot offers a boost to this particularly contemporary structure and gives it the timeless aspect of the great perfumes from the beginning of the 20th century. This short formula, composed of very precious materials, generates a sober but distinct sensuality. 

I can't believe my luck with this fragrance.

I have been so bored of everything lately, dowsing in Guerlain Vanille Spiritueuse (undoubtedly a beautiful composition albeit not of much character), and not finding anything that would sweep me off my feet or even that I cared to wear.

I tried a couple of ouds from Armani- I like them in theory and considered purchasing but there is something missing with me and ouds.

Then along comes Dries, which to be frank, I only went to sniff because I've become enchanted with his last collections and especially all that sheer plaid- I mean, I always liked Dries but he seems to be so explosive right now. Dries x Frederic Malle seems like a worthwile collaboration.

Esentially it has a lot of the things i like…some citrus in the form of lemon that gives it an oriental "shalimar" facet (down to the trace of soap I get from Shalimar), a warm spicy tonka/sandalwood combo that very much reminds me of Agent Provocateur l'Agent, one of my favourites, jasmin which is one of my favourite flowers, and a base of Vanilla. Can't get much better than that for me really!

I'm finding it disarming. Unexpected, yet surprisingly easy for me to wear (and I don't usually do grown-up orientals), introverted, delicious and above all and most important, CURRENT. It is not lightly that i say this: There are SO FEW good, current fragrances nowadays, and it's a shame. You can't always fall back on Mitsouko, magnificent as it may be, it is a reflection of its time, and I tend to wanna live in the now. This collection is great but of course overpriced, I paid 70 bucks for the three 10ml travel set. Next size up is 50ml and 110 pounds so there isn't a massive difference in terms of savings and I like having travel sizes. Frederic Malle bottles are super annoying because they don't unscrew so if you get the big bottle, you're stuck with it, you can't transfer any into a travel spritzer.